We live in a time when most of us who live in larger Jewish communities have so many choices of where to dine. Cities are bursting with restaurants yet finding that unique eating experience is rare. Pardes, located in the Park Slope section of Brooklyn, New York is quite an extraordinary dining experience. First, the style is casual yet chic; chilled out like the neighborhood. The menu changes each evening as the Chef, Moses Wendel, sees what is fresh and what those choices spur creatively. (We have been tracking him for about two years already as you may remember. GKC raved about Wendel stealing the show at the Royal Wine Kosher Food and Wine Show in NY 2 in 2010. Wendel went on to open the much acclaimed Basil and now has his own restaurant, Pardes) The food presentation is fabulous, with bright white plates of all different shapes and gorgeous food with vibrant color and stimulating texture . And finally, the general vibe is “enjoy the food” since it is served as it’s prepared, individually, not all at once, and with no rush to get you out. For a bunch of neurotic multi-tasking New Yorkers, this meant it was time to relax and just enjoy – which we did thanks to some delicious and unusual food and good wine.
We went with 4 other friends so we had a lot of food to try. Chef Wendel’s menu is unbelievable with dishes like “Grilled Treviso, beef heart, poached egg, red pepper” (the poached egg sat in the middle of the dish – btw, huge food trend in the treif world- incredible flavor and I never thought I would taste beef heart, super tender, melt in your mouth), “Duck with Root Beer, peanuts, celery, Ras el Hanou and Harissa”(Moroccan hot chili sauce), “Wild Tasmanian Sea Trout, red pepper sauce, corn crepe, pistachio leek fondue”, “Bluefish Bergamot (that’s a citrus fruit and when was the last time you saw bluefish on a menu?), and so much more. The trout was prepared perfectly with a seared crisp top and a soft, flavorful center. I had wanted double the amount of the pistachio leek fondue, which was hard to share with the others. Each dish is prepared individually and is spiced with intense flavors that balance and compliment the other flavors and yet never overwhelm the dish as a whole. The Beef Cheek Pizza, with 24-hour roasted tomatoes and fresh basil, was a particular favorite. Even my husband who does not enjoy spicy food found the flavor and intensity so perfect. Another highlight was the “roasted corn, grapefruit and fennel salad”. Sprinkled with arugula and sitting on a bed of corn pudding and mizuna (Japanese lettuce), and topped with corn bread croutons, I was sold on this restaurant at this course. Even the crispy fries are unusual, as they are served with this delicious onion parsley garnish, and amazing dips like garlic truffle mayo and smoky red wine ketchup (I really want to package and buy these for home use!)
Pardes was a food lover’s fun evening, as it was an evening to enjoy taste, presentation, and great company (people were sitting and eating all night). Get there to taste the summer’s freshest food and go often because Chef Wendel will surprise you each night with a an incredible creation you will certainly not find anywhere else. One of the best new great kosher restaurants around, for sure.
Finally, one last treat, with all this wonderful food, the bill was a very reasonable $380 for 6 people including wine and dessert.
497 Atlantic Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11217
718 797 3880
Monday thru Thursday, and Sunday 12 pm – 11 pm