By Gary Landsman

Purim is a holiday of confusion and allusion, where nothing is really “normal”.
Which got me thinking, that maybe I should relinquish typical wines in favor of more unusual ones this Purim. And these days we have many unusual wines, made from grapes that are not nearly as popular as the Cabernets, Merlots, or Chardonnays. What is interesting is that many of these unusual grapes (AKA “varietals”), have been around much longer than the more typical ones. And many of the wines made from these varietals come from grapes whose vines have been around for a long time. These “old vine” wines are generally extracted as the older vines produce fewer and often times smaller berries. Their roots are deeply entrenched in the soil, which enables them to survive without irrigation (called “dry farmed”). And the wines produced from said grapes are often quite elegant and complex. Making these unusual wines some of the best buys on the market.

The first wine that comes to mind comes from old vines here in the U.S. The most common old vines here are the Zinfandel vines in California. And an underappreciated wine is the Baron Herzog “Old Vine Zin”, from vines over 60 years old. Zinfandel wines have a unique flavor profile that often reminds people of things such as boysenberry, dried plums or blackberry jam. These ripe fruit flavors pair beautifully with wintertime stews.

The next two wines come from Israel, a location where they were making wines 3,000 years ago. No, the old vine wines from Israel are not that old. Muslim rule in the area saw to it that all vines were uprooted so that no alcoholic beverages could be produced. And while the modern wine revolution in Israel dates back to the late 1800’s, Israel did not truly begin producing world-class wines until about 20 years ago.

So the Carmel Old Vine Petite Sirah, from 25 plus year old vines in the Judean Hills region means these vines pre-date the quality wine revolution in Israel. These vines were actually forgotten about for several years and as wine production became hot the grape grower reintroduced some forgotten about grapes. Petit Sirah is commonly used as a grape to blend with other grapes, but the fruit on these vines were deemed worthy of making their own wine. This deep purple and tannic wine is like a wine on steroids. Very big, chewy and delicious – you’ll definitely want to pair it with a roast.

Another old vine wine produced by Carmel is the Old Vine Carignan. These vines are even older than the Petite Sirah at over 30 years old, and are located in Zichron Yaakov not far from Israel’s oldest winery. The interesting story with this vineyard is that the Carignan vine produces a lot of bunches of grapes relative to other varietals. At the time the farmers were getting paid by weight, so naturally they would plant vines that produce a lot of fruit. Years passed and vineyards were uprooted in favor or more popular varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. But this particular vineyard in Zichron was overlooked. And when they realized it was still there, the immediately knew were sitting on something special.

The Carmel Old Vine Carignan is an elegant, medium bodied wine with cherry and coffee/mocha aromas. Rich yet delicate berry flavors and a long finish make this unique wine perfect for chicken, meat or pasta dishes.

Rounding out our unique varietals is Garnacha (as it is known in Spain) or Grenache. The Capcanes Peraj Petita has about 2/3 Garnacha from vines that are as much as 50 years old. This Spanish Co-op has been in the wine business for over 100 years, but only started making wine in the mid 1990’s. Their first wine, the Peraj Ha’abib immediately won accolades, and the market begged for a more affordable wine. Priced at around $20/bottle, the Petita is a fresh and lively wine with floral aromas and both berry and spice flavors. The refreshing acidity of this wine makes it a great pairing for all kinds of foods as well as a wine that is a great sipper on its own.

These old vine unusual varietal wines will surely lead to great conversation this Purim, so much so that you may decide they are worthy of your regular Shabbos or Yom Tov table…

It has been a cold winter of late in the Northeast and given the option I’d like to spend every evening curled up in front of the fireplace with a steaming hot bowl of rich hearty soup. Give me an “everything soup” – start with the chicken & herbs and simply throw everything you can imagine in – ahh, the best. Now you want to have a nice glass of wine in front of your fireplace with the aforementioned bowl of soup, but which wine to choose?

Pairing wine with soup can be a challenge for wine lovers; with the overpowering nature of a rich soup and the similar liquidy texture between the two. The first rule, as always, is to drink whatever wine you like. But if you want to work a little outside the box you can turn to some underappreciated wines; sparkling & fortified.

When considering sparkling wine the associations are automatically champagne & celebratory events. I’d encourage you to consider trying a sparkling wine any time and turning to those made outside of the Champagne region of France (similar to champagne but legally not allowed to be called “Champagne”), such as Cava from Spain, Prosecco from Italy, or simply sparkling wine made in places such as Israel or California. When done right, the texture of the little bubbles in a sparkling wine combined with its bracing dry acidity make sparkling wines “food neutral” – as in they compliment ANYTHING. Looking to the “old world” you can seek out the French Blanc de Blanc by Herzog, the slightly sweet Bartenura Brut Prosecco from Italy or the bone dry ELVI “Adar” Brut Cava from Spain.

Another option for fireplace sipping, also unheralded, is “Port”, a fortified wine from Portugal. Often sweet and generally fortified with a neutral grape spirit such as grappa or brandy, this wine screams warm slippers & fireplace sipper. The fortification of the wine leads to a higher alcohol level than regular table wines. And said heavier alcohol makes for a similar textural contrast as the aforementioned sparkling wines – making for a heart warming combination with soup. Try the Porto Cordovero from Portugal or Israel’s Vintage Port made by Carmel.

It’s cold outside but these underappreciated wine styles paired with that steamy bowl of soup and a crackling fireplace can ensure that you are nice and warm inside.

Promotion is 10% purchase of $100 or more Coupon code: GKC , to purchase, go to www.onlinekosherwine.com.

Great Wines to Enjoy this Chanukah

These wines are terrific accompaniments to the “I’ll start my diet tomorrow” fried foods of Chanukah.

At Chanukah we traditionally eat fried foods to commemorate the miracle of oil. Pairing the resulting fried delicacies with wine has proven to be a bit of a challenge for wine lovers. But wines with sweet, bubbly or even minerally characteristics have demonstrated an ability to stand up to the challenge fried foods present.

Bartenura Asti or Prosecco are two Italian sparkling wines. The lively texture the bubbles impart to these wines help to cut through the oily feel of fried foods and make them a natural pairing.

From New Zealand, Goose Bay’s Sauvignon Blanc has another vivacious feature to save one’s palate – acidity. The crisp acidity of this New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc that received a score of 90 from Wine Spectator acts as a palate refresher and keeps our taste buds alive amidst a sea of heavy fried foods.

Bartenura’s Moscato, more commonly referred to as the “blue bottle”, has a sweet and bubbly character that has made this treat a guilty pleasure for years. A semi-sweet white with refreshing bubbles, Bartenura Moscato is the perfect pairing to latkes dipped in applesauce

While big red wines might clash with Chanukah cuisine, a light Pinot Noir, such as the Herzog Special Reserve Pinot Noir, will go quite nicely. With its strawberry character and refreshing acidity this wine will complement both a salty latke and a sweet jelly donut.

The Herzog Reserve Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was recently awarded 90 points from Wine Enthusiast. Lauded for its elegance and complexity, this wine made in Herzog’s world class Oxnard, California winery has the structure to stand up to the main dish at your Chanukah gathering – anything from meat or chicken to pasta and fish.

Gary Landsman, AKA the “Wine Tasting Guy”, makes, sells, writes about and of course tastes wine. You can read more of his writings in his blog at www.winetastingguy.com or contact him with any wine related questions at gary@winetastingguy.com

When Julia Child was asked what her favorite wine was, she purportedly responded “Gin”. I can identify – although not particularly with gin. I am not a big wine fan but I do like a good scotch. My all-time favorite (this girl has expensive tastes) is LaGavulin, a single malt scotch whiskey produced in the town of…you guessed it…LaGavulin on the island of Islay. It has a strong smoky flavor and is not to everyone’s taste but we’re hooked.

I have gone to wine tastings and confess to feeling completely baffled. I don’t sense the subtle touch of oak, the hint of vanilla or the slightly orange flavor. I did once think there was a rubbery taste that remind me of the tires of our car on a hot summer’s day and was told that was actually true!! I also can’t tell what should be paired with beef or lamb or salmon or trout, let alone, as one label suggests, what goes perfectly with pound cake! I just know what I like. Or in this case, what my husband likes (I’m a fizzy Moscato D’Asti girl myself). He recommends:
Weinstock Select Cabernet Sauvignon
The Tishbi Winery Cabernets and, if you feel like splurging,
The Castel Grand Vin. L’Chaim!

Kosher wine refers to a wine that was produced by adhering to very stringent guidelines and Rabbinic supervision. Since this allows for the use of all wine styles, grape varieties, and growing regions, any wine made in accordance to these rules can be kosher. With the increasing sophistication of our palates, wine has grown in popularity and there is now a large variety of excellent kosher wines available from every wine-producing country in the world, including Australia, Chile, France, Israel, Italy, New Zealand, South Africa and the United States.

Kosher wines are produced according to the following standards:
1. The equipment and machinery used to make the wine must be used exclusively for the production of kosher products.
2. From grape crushing to the sealing of the bottle, only Sabbath-observant Jews may physically handle the grapes, production equipment, and wine.
3. Only certified kosher products (yeast, filtering agents, etc.) may be used in processing.
4. Kosher wines are subject to a very stringent filtration procedure and no foreign substance may be used (unlike non-kosher wines, which often use gelatin, rice, milk products or animal products for clarification and purification processes).
5. No artificial coloring or preservatives may be used.

According to Gary Wartels, proprietor of Skyview Wines and Spirits, the largest retailer of kosher wines and spirits nationally, “some of the finest wines are now kosher and the selection, prices and quality are unsurpassed”. In addition, “this previous Passover season saw the introduction of over 100 new varieties, vintages and great values”. Here are five top picks for your summer barbeque recommended by Richard Fishman, Skyview’s wine maven:

1. Teal Lake Sparkling Muscat – Deliciously fresh, effervescent and semi-sweet with wonderful fruit flavors of melon, apple and pear. Best when chilled and served outdoors on your patio or deck enjoying chicken, pasta or as a desert accompaniment (Mevushal)

2. Yogev Cabernet Merlot 2007 – Produced by Binyamina winery and their growers, the Yogev (from the Hebrew words “tiller of the soiler”) series of wines are a top seller and crowd pleaser. This blend of 50% cabernet and 50% merlot is medium bodied with rich fruit flavors and fully ready for drinking now, but can be cellared for up to 3 years (Non-Mevushal)

3. Weinstock Select Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 – a rich, aromatic, and mouth-filling wine made by the same winemaker as the Baron Herzog reserve series. A perfect balance of fruit and oak aged for 18 months, this classic wine has gentle tannins and a lingering finish. Excellent with steak and other rich food dishes (Mevushal).

4. Elvi Matiz Rioja 2007, – A relative new release from the up and coming progressive winery Elvi wines, this classic Rioja is made from 100% Tempanillo grapes. An intense yet accessible wine a long finish and full body is best with spicy chicken dishes, beef and Mediterranean foods (Non-Mevushal).

5. Hagafen Chardonnay Napa Valley 2007 – This California Chardonnay is made with grapes grown in the famous Napa Valley Oak Knoll growing district. This wine has a classical balance of ripe fruit flavors offset by a toasty oaky character. Bold flavor, yet light on the palette, this Chardonnay finishes beautifully with a wide range of fish, chicken, and vegetarian dishes or even as an aperitif (Mevushal).